In New York we declared the suit was back, but after today in Milan it’s a lock. Donatella Versace’s new collection opened with a swaggering black pantsuit, the jacket’s midsection cinched with a boned corset that emphasized the fullness of its shoulders.
Not only that, she also included a pair of satin top coats from her men’s collection, one in bright pink and the other in electric blue.
The flipside of this collection’s tailoring was an emphasis on corset dressing, a Versace signature if ever there were one.
Versace doesn’t miss a thing, so she’s no doubt also clocked Gen-Z’s newfound affection for the mini. Hers come in denim, raw-edge tweed, and gray flannel pinstripes. Latex leggings pull the look together, cutting the length’s potential sweetness with a potent allure. Chez Versace sex is back too, though that’s less of a surprise. The contrast invigorated her, like “an elastic band pulled tight and about to snap back with a build-up of energy,” she said. “That feeling is just irresistible to me.”
That had to have been a first.
Earlier this month when she revealed her men’s, she said, “this collection introduces Versace 2.0. It represents a next step and a move forward, not focusing on the singular but on multiplicity, progression, and diversity—exactly what I see valued by the new generation.”
Corsets shaped micro dresses and ¾ length sheaths in lustrous satin, second-skin knits, and even glossy puffers. But most of the time they performed the role of layering piece under boxy jackets in blown-up checks and pied-de-poule, a fall 2022 replacement for the bra tops that young women have adopted in lieu of the T-shirts and tank tops of eras gone, Covid having loosened long-held dress codes. (vogue.com)
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