Antonio Marras, a designer who embraces the complexities of his own being, finds solace in fashion. "I flee from myself—I fear the encounter with who I truly am," he confesses. Yet, fashion gives him the canvas to manifest the internal contradictions and celebrate the tempestuous harmony within. Marras is a storyteller, and his Resort 2025 collection is a fantastical narrative set in an enchanted garden where nature reclaims its dominion over human design. "Where perfection creates dissonance, the impulse of nature creates harmony," he muses.
The Hanbury Botanical Gardens, perched on the dramatic Capo Mortola promontory, serves as the collection's muse. Thomas Hanbury, an English philanthropist, businessman, and navigator, established this cosmopolitan oasis in 1869, bringing together plants from across the globe. The "Fior di Sardegna" collection evokes the profound responsibility of being a flower, echoing Emily Dickinson's poetic sentiment.
Poetry permeates Marras's aesthetic and philosophy. This season, he envisions dressing Eva Mameli Calvino, Italy's first female botanist and mother of the renowned writer Italo Calvino. Herbaria scans transform into prints, disrupted and expanded by solid colours, blurring the boundaries between masculine and feminine. Contrasts are woven throughout clean lines meet 1970s references, refined embroidery clashes with check patterns, stripes dance with damask fabrics, and parkas are disrupted by splashes of pink.
Romanticism, sometimes androgynous, becomes a tool for palpable lightness and innate delicacy. From chiffon dresses to military fabrics, tulle details to menswear tailoring, sequins to knitwear, and couture techniques, Marras incorporates sneakers as a novel addition, reflecting the sought-after inconsistency that defines his artistic identity.
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