Erdem Moralioglu, known for his exquisite dresses, reveals a surprising truth: tailoring is equally sought after by his clientele. This season, he combines both strengths, drawing inspiration from the life and work of Radclyffe Hall, a British lesbian author whose novel "The Well of Loneliness" caused a scandal in the 1920s. A photograph of Hall and her lover, Una Troubridge, embodies the collection's essence - a blend of masculine tailoring and flapper-era glamour.
This exploration of Hall's world, a prelude to his upcoming fall show, showcases Moralioglu's signature approach to character study. He expertly balances sharp tailoring – coats, wide-leg trousers, waistcoats – with flowing, draped silhouettes, reminiscent of the flapper era. Both styles are meticulously crafted, equally captivating and luxurious.
Beyond the theme, Moralioglu's collection embodies his keen understanding of women's needs for special occasions. He crafts modern romanticism with a practical edge, never overdoing it. Draped dresses adorned with 3-D flowers and asymmetric capes, along with swathed-neck sweaters, exude elegant simplicity. Tailored pieces, like a swaggering Prince of Wales coat with floral appliqués or a nipped-waist skirt suit with floral prints, offer both sophistication and practicality. One particularly intriguing look, a utilitarian country outdoor ensemble, is ideal for the British spring weather – or perhaps, a dog show, a nod to Hall and Troubridge's shared passion for raising and showing dachshunds.
This collection is only a glimpse into Moralioglu's fascination with early 20th-century lesbian culture and style. His mood board, filled with forgotten imagery of women-only clubs and erotica, hints at a deeper exploration in the future.
With this collection, Erdem Moralioglu proves that fashion is not just about clothes; it's about storytelling, and he is a master of weaving captivating narratives through his creations.
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